Each Chef Must Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.

Erika Williams
Erika Williams

A historian and royal commentator with over a decade of experience analyzing monarchies and their cultural impacts.